Winter Care for Fuchsias

In early autumn in the Pacific Northwest, fuchsias are mostly still in full bloom. But as the weather cools, it becomes time to prepare your fuchsias for winter. Below are some helpful tips to see your fuchsias through the winter.

Fuchsias 101 – Winter Care for Fuchsias

By Jackie Laverne, PowellsWood Gardener & Consultant and Owner of Magellanica Gardens Nursery

 

With the cold weather come fallen leaves and bare trees and shrubs. Like other plants, fuchsias respond to cooler temperatures by dropping their leaves. In the Pacific Northwest, October is usually the time to prepare your fuchsias for winter. The following tips—for both hardy and non-hardy fuchsias—will help ensure your fuchsias are protected through the winter.

Winter care for fuchsias in the ground:

Hardy varieties of fuchsias can overwinter in the ground and require minimal care.

1.  Clean up any dead leaves and debris from the ground so there is no place for disease or pests to hide through the winter.

2.  Lay about 1 to 2 inches of fresh mulch around the plants for a little winter insurance. Do not cut the fuchsias back. Unlike fuchsias in containers, fuchsias in the ground need their stems for insulation and food through the winter.

3.  No watering is necessary. Just clean up, mulch, and wait for the new growth in spring.

Winter care for fuchsias in containers:

Non-hardy varieties of fuchsias can survive through the winter with some special care.

1.  Cut back the stems to the sides of the container, and cut to no shorter than 3 inches at the top.

2.  Clean up all the debris from the soil, and remove the top one-inch of soil from the pot.

3.  Take the plant out of the pot and check the root ball for pests. If there are pests, wash the plant and its roots in an insecticidal soap. Wash the container with bleach or a good antibacterial soap. Rinse the plant and the pot well.

4.  Place the plant back in the pot, and add some fresh organic potting soil, to put naturally occurring nematodes and nutrients back into the soil. Do not fertilize, as fertilizer will burn the freshly exposed roots, and is not necessary through the winter months since we do not want to encourage new growth until spring.

5.  Lightly water the plant to stabilize the roots and prevent them from drying out.

6.  If possible, lay the pot on its side in your garage or wherever you will be storing the plant that will not freeze. (Laying the container on its side encourages growth of the root system.) Providing light for the plant is fine, but not necessary for the plant to survive through the winter. Also make sure there is good air circulation around the plant.

7.  Water about once a month through the winter. Do not overwater your plants as this will promote root rot and insects.

8.  After you water, rotate your pots one-quarter turn to encourage continued root growth.

With these steps, you can look forward to healthy new growth on your fuchsias come spring!

 

Do you have any special tips for caring for fuchsias through the winter?

Parrotia persica brings fall color to the garden

The Parrotia persica is a beautiful tree with year-round interest, though it is perhaps at its finest in the fall, with colorful leaves in shades of gold, orange, and red. In winter, the Parrotia’s gray peeling bark gives it a textured appearance, and in early spring the tree blooms with attractive maroon flowers.

 

Parrotia persica is hardy to Zones 4-8 and is a wonderful addition to Pacific Northwest gardens. At PowellsWood, our Parrotia has been growing in the entry garden since 1995, and people often ask about it. Our tree is so spread out that people think it is two trees, but it is really just the one.

The Parrotia persica is a tough species that can tolerate drought, heat, wind, and cold, according to author Michael Dirr.* At PowellsWood, our Parrotia is in moist soil, sheltered by taller maple trees, so it gets dappled sun throughout the day, which may be its optimum growing conditions. The Parrotia reaches up to about 30 feet high and about as wide. The cultivar ‘Vanessa’ also grows to about 30 feet high, but is not as wide, with a more upright columnar growth.

The root system for the Parrotia is reportedly rather shallow, so perhaps that is why we have tried to grow pachysandra and euonymus groundcover beneath our tree with no success.

For the linguaphiles out there, one might think the name “Parrotia” refers to the bird, because of the colorful fall foliage. But the tree was named in honor of F. W. Parrot, a German naturalist who traveled in the Caucasus area in the early 1830s. “Persica” derives from the tree’s native habitat in Persia. The plant’s common name, “Persian ironwood,” derives from the fact that the wood is very close-grained, hard and strong.

Author Michael Dirr says: “I love this tree: the clean summer foliage; the yellows, oranges, and reds of autumn; the cream, green, gray, and brown exfoliating bark; and the small, maroon flowers that glow on a late-winter day. Over the years, my travels have led me to many parrotias, no two alike…”*

We love this tree too—so much so that we’ve added two new Parrotias to the garden—the ‘Vanessa’ variety this time—so we’re looking forward to the additional interest they will bring throughout the year, especially in the fall!

Do you have a Parrotia in your garden? What do you like best about this tree?

* from Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs: An Illustrated Encyclopedia by Michael A. Dirr

Fuchsias 101 – How to Eat Fuchsia Berries

By Jackie LaVerne, PowellsWood Gardener & Consultant and Owner of Magellanica Gardens Nursery

What?! Did that say eat fuchsia berries?!

Yes! It did!

It does not seem to be commonly known to folks who are growing fuchsias in their gardens that they are growing berries. Usually people think of those dark squishy things as a menace and a mess in their yards. But they are actually very tasty berries that can be used in many ways, including salads, muffins, tarts, garnishes, jams, jellies, even pies (although you really have to collect a lot to make pie!), and the berries are also just great to pick and eat all by themselves. And the flowers are edible too.

All fuchsias produce berries, although some varieties have much better tasting fruit than others. The berries are produced as the flowers on the plants mature and fall off. What is left behind is either a round or elliptical-shaped berry. The berries can grow to almost an inch long on some hybrids and species fuchsias, or to just 1/2-inch on the miniature Encliandra-type fuchsias. Single-bloom fuchsias produce more fruit than double-bloom fuchsias. Fuchsia berries can taste very peppery to very sweet, almost like a kiwi. The berries of Fuchsia procumbens, the groundcover fuchsia, are my personal favorite; they get very large and are very sweet.

Late summer through fall is a good time to harvest fuchsia berries. Pick the berries when they are soft and squishy; test them by tasting them to make sure that they are sweet. Be sure to use them promptly, as they do not keep well and will go bad quickly once picked. If you need to save up large quantities of fruit for a pie or tart, freeze them immediately like any other berry. When harvesting the berries keep in mind that the dark fruit will stain clothes and fingers, so remember to dress accordingly!

You can use your own berry recipes and substitute fuchsia berries, or here are two great fuchsia berry recipes to try. Do you have a favorite fuchsia berry recipe to share? We’d love to hear from you!

Fuchsia Berry Jelly

1 cup fuchsia flowers

1 cup ripe, washed fuchsia berries

1 cup sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

2 cups of water (or apple juice or apple cider)

1 apple, sweet, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons of unflavored gelatin

Simmer flowers, berries, sugar, lemon juice, water, and apple for 10 minutes. Let mixture cool a bit, then strain it. Add the gelatin and allow to thicken in refrigerator.

Fuchsia Berry Jam

1 lb. sugar

2 tablespoons water (or apple pectin, apple juice or cider)

juice of 1 lemon

1 ½ lb. of ripe fuchsia berries, washed

Combine sugar, water and lemon juice in a pan and cook carefully over low heat until sugar dissolves. Set aside and allow to cool completely. Add the berries gently, folding them into the mixture so as not to break up the berries too much. Bring the mixture slowly to a boil. Boil until the mixture will set when tested on a plate. Seal in heated jars. Allow to cool completely before eating, then enjoy!

What Is It?

We get asked about this plant more than any other at PowellsWood. For those of you who know what it is, you are a plant aficionado! For those who may have seen it at PowellsWood and wondered what it is, the answer is Begonia luxurians, also known as a Palm Leaf Begonia. The most common response we get when we tell people it’s a begonia is, “Really?!?” It may not look like the begonias you’re used to seeing, but a begonia it is, and a very cool plant.

The Begonia luxurians likes part-sun to shade, so it fits right in here in the shady gardens of our area. Though this plant is not hardy in the Pacific Northwest—it’s native to the rain forests of Brazil and is hardy only in USDA Zones 10 and above—still, it’s possible to keep this wonderful plant in this area for years. At PowellsWood, we’ve had our three plants for several years now.

Our begonias are permanently planted in large ceramic containers and we treat them much like houseplants. From late fall to early spring, we keep the plants indoors, in our greenhouse, where we water them about once a month so they don’t completely dry out. When temperatures begin to warm up in early spring, we bring the plants out in the afternoons to soak in some warmth, and put them back inside at night. It takes some effort to move the containers back and forth (a dolly works, or two strong people), but the plants appreciate it! At the same time in early spring, we fertilize the plants with a dose of bat guano and liquefied organic kelp. The kelp encourages a healthy root system. Once nighttime temperatures reach 55 degrees, the plants remain outside and “luxuriate” in the garden through the summer and into the fall.

Just before the first frost in late fall, we bring the plants back into the greenhouse. The tallest branches need to be pruned off so the plants will fit into our tiny greenhouse—these plants grow up to 8 feet tall—but pruning isn’t necessary if you have the space for them. If you do prune them, you can use your cuttings to propagate new plants—it’s a bit tricky but it can be done!

We are always looking for new and interesting plant combinations for the begonias—though this plant makes a statement all by itself! PowellsWood is open now through October so there’s still time to see this striking and unusual plant!

Encliandra Fuchsias – The Little Fuchsias

Did you know that hardy fuchsias fare well in the climate of the Pacific Northwest? The following is the second in an occasional series of articles about hardy fuchsias by PowellsWood gardener and consultant, Jackie LaVerne.

Stay tuned for our next blog — we”ll be talking about a different kind of plant — one that is asked about most at PowellsWood!

FUCHSIAS 101: Encliandra Fuchsias – The Little Fuchsias

by Jackie LaVerne

What are Encliandra fuchsias? Well, they are often described as the miniature or dwarf-flowered fuchsias. Encliandras are fuchsias that are primarily from Mexico, high up in the mountain regions where it is cool, dry and foggy. They have extremely small flowers, generally less than 1/2-inch long, and some less than 1/8-inch long. The leaves on the plants are also very small compared to the regular species and cultivars of fuchsias. Encliandra fuchsias are very heavy bloomers, with flower colors ranging from whites to bicolors of orange and red, to hot pinks.

Encliandras like cool weather, which suits the Pacific Northwest perfectly. Most hybrids and species of Encliandras are hardy to our climate. They seem to prefer part shade rather than full sun, but I have found good results wherever I have planted them. The plants like the soil to be lightly moist, never totally dry, and never soggy.

Typically, Encliandras grow 2-3 feet wide and 1-3 feet high, but size and growing habits depend on the species or variety of the plant and also on the growing conditions. Low light makes the plants reach for the sun and bloom less, while full sun makes for a more compact plant with a ton of blooms.

Encliandra fuchsias naturally have a very wild and free-form habit, but with patience and a sharp pair of scissors they can be grown in many different ways and conditions, including bonsai, topiary, espalier, rings, hedges, hearts, and baskets — and anything else your creativity and patience will allow. Remember to keep your Encliandras moist when they are planted in pots, as they do not like to dry out. It is best to keep potted Encliandras in part shade during the summer and in a protected place, such as a greenhouse, during winter. But I think it is just as fun to plant them in the ground and let them grow any way they like.

Oh, and one other thing — Encliandra fuchsias have the most prolific, wonderful and tasty berries after the blooms fall off. Yes, you can eat the berries, and they are quite sweet — and the birds love them too! Stay tuned for fuchsia berry recipes!

Introducing New Series on Hardy Fuchsia Care

Beginning with today’s article, we’d like to introduce you to a new series we’ll be publishing from time to time, written by our own on-hand fuchsia expert, Jackie LaVerne. In this series, “Fuchsias 101,” Jackie will be sharing many of the invaluable things she’s learned over the years as a grower of hardy fuchsias.

Jackie owns Magellanica Gardens nursery specializing in hardy fuchsias, and is a regular contributor to garden publications and a popular presenter at garden events. Jackie is also busy here at PowellsWood as a gardener and consultant.

Please let us know what other kinds of information you’d like to see in this space. Do you need information about container planting? About care of perennials? About pest control? This blog is for you–so please share with us your thoughts and comments!

FUCHSIAS 101

by Jackie LaVerne

For all of the people who love fuchsias, but have been frustrated finding information on how to care for them, this article is for you!

Basket and Container Fuchsias

Basket and container fuchsias are a wonderful gift for spring events; however, as the season progresses, they become unsightly, long and stringy and full of berries. Many folks complain about the amount of watering they have to do to keep their baskets alive during heat waves. Here are the basics of basket and container care:

1. When buying a basket or container fuchsia, it is better to buy one that is NOT IN BLOOM! Fuchsias do not naturally bloom in May; they bloom late June through the summer and into the fall until we have a hard frost.

2. Pinch your baskets or containers by removing the small two-leaf tip at the end of each branch; this generates more growth throughout the entire basket, giving you a plant with twice as much foliage, and twice as many flowers to enjoy.

3. Once the fuchsias begin to bloom, it is wise to rotate your plants one-quarter turn each week to help with even growth, and even light. This also helps encourage even blooms.

4. When the blooms have faded, and begin falling off, you must remove the entire berry and the stem of the berry in order to keep the plant in bloom; this saves you having to clean up the berries off of the porch.

5. When watering your baskets or containers, add fertilizer to the water every time you water. This ensures good nutrition for the plant both in the soil and on the foliage. Any basic fertilizer that is balanced will work, i.e. 20-20-20, or 10-10-10, even 10-8-10 will work, as long as the numbers are close together. Fuchsia fertilizer, sold in most box and specialty stores, is a complete waste of money, as the only thing that these fertilizers do is boost blooms, and you need to take care of the entire plant.

6. Water your plants when they need water. During hot spells, water early in the morning or late in the evening so as to reduce evaporation and scalding of the leaves. If your plant looks limp during the day, don’t panic–the plant is just too hot; just like us, it can go limp. Check the weight of the pot; if it is light, move it to a cooler, shadier location and water. If the pot is heavy, don’t water it. DROUGHT AND DROWN LOOK THE SAME ON A FUCHSIA. Mist the plant lightly with a cold water spray to reduce the stress on the plant, and maybe find a cooler location to hang it.

Do all these things and you can enjoy healthy blooming fuchsias all season long!

Summer Care For Hardy Fuchsias

Come to PowellsWood on Saturday, July 10, from 1 pm to 2 pm for a special presentation given by fuchsia expert Jackie LaVerne.  Jackie—who owns Magellanica Gardens Nursery specializing in fuchsias, and who also is a gardener and consultant here at PowellsWood—will be on hand to share her expertise on the care of hardy fuchsias. Jackie is a regular contributor to garden publications and shares her latest article below on summer tips on caring for your new fuchsia plantings and fuchsias in containers. Happy gardening!

The Fuchsias are on Fire!
by Jackie LaVerne

Here it is dumping rain outside and I am going to talk about heat and fuchsias. But summer is here and heat is coming. We have had extremely hot days and very cold days all mixed up together so far this year and our fuchsias seem a little confused, and so do we. With all the strange weather, the fuchsias do not seem to know what to do — bloom to survive or grow and get big? Well, they will do both if the weather will be changing up. But, with July and August on our feet, the weather will be heating up. Fuchsias love the sun, and they show their appreciation by blooming their hearts out. We should show our appreciation by taking the precautions necessary to avoid damage to our plants while still being able to enjoy ourselves this summer.

First, especially if you have new plants, correct planting is necessary. Plant your new plants deep, just like a tomato. This helps them to produce a good root system and become established more quickly. Second, planting deeply protects them from hot summer temperatures, as they are cool-, not cold-weather plants. Next, a nice thick 2″ layer of mulch will help cut back on watering, wasting water, and protect them from the dehydration that can occur when they are left for long periods of time without any water at all, like when you go on that dream cruise that lasts for a month to Tahiti to find the mythological incredible yellow fuchsia that we only see in pictures.

For your fuchsias that are in pots (hopefully being grown for all the shows that you are entering!), you need to take more care. They can be grown in the sun, and I strongly encourage you to do so. They need to be checked daily for signs of stress and dehydration. Water as is necessary, fertilize every time that you water. But remember, never fertilize a plant that has completely dried out as fertilizer will burn the stressed roots and cause burn on the leaves. If your plant does dry out completely and the leaves are all limp, do not despair. Take a bucket of water and drop your whole pot in the water for a couple of hours, remove it from the water and set it in the shade for a day or so to rest, hopefully it will perk back up. When it does, slowly move it back to the sunny position it was in before and proceed with daily checks for good moisture. Remember to turn your plants everyday one-quarter turn, and remove all debris to help keep your fuchsia healthy and disease-free.

If you do all these things, you should be well on your way to beautiful fuchsias in flower, with blooms so thick that they seem to be on fire with color. Remember, if I can do it, you can too!

[This article was previously published in the British Fuchsia Society newsletter and the Northwest Fuchsia Society's Fuchsia Flash--PW]

Buds & Blooms Festival a big success!

It’s been a whirlwind since our last blog a few weeks ago! We’ve been very busy preparing the garden for the annual Buds & Blooms Festival on Mother’s Day weekend. Spreading compost, creating pots, trimming perennials, tucking annuals in the ground for pops of color throughout the garden—and overall tidying and sprucing up the garden so it looked its best!

The weather was beautiful and sunny both days. About 350 visitors came through the garden. The tea room was very busy on Mother’s Day. Everyone commented on the lovely music of flautist Dan Mould and harpist Tori Norman. A huge thank-you to all of our wonderful volunteers and guest speakers! We couldn’t have done it without you!

Overall, PowellsWood shone and made many new friends. If you weren’t able to come on Mother’s Day weekend, we hope you’ll treat yourself to a visit to PowellsWood between now and October. Let us know in this space what you’d like to hear about and we’ll be happy to share our thoughts!

Welcome Spring!

Welcome to our first blog! This season we’ve expanded our hours–  PowellsWood Garden is now open April through October, Tuesday – Saturday 10:00 am – 3:00 pm.  If you haven’t already, we invite you to visit our new Facebook Fan Page and become a fan of PowellsWood Garden.  And if you’re looking for something fun to do Mother’s Day weekend, PowellsWood will be open as part Federal Way’s Buds & Blooms Festival on May 8 & 9th.

Right now, the Mt. Fuji cherries are putting on a spectacular show! And the daffodils are in full bloom. Come take a stroll!